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Annapurna Trek: Day 5 (Ghandruk – Nayapul – Pokhara)
After an excellent night’s sleep, I had my usual breakfast of Gurung bread, fried eggs, and green chili sauce, this time washed down with a mug of French pressed organic Nepalese coffee. I grew quite fond of Gurung bread on the trek and now I wish I had easier access to it. The morning of the last day left me with a lot of bittersweet feelings. I was growing a bit weary of the trail after four days and was very much looking forward to going back to a proper hotel in Pokhara. But I had also grown accustomed to…
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Annapurna Trek: Day 4 (Tadapani – Ghandruk)
After going to bed early and getting a great sleep, I was up early with the sun and the noise of the kitchen and other trekkers starting their days. After a late (8:00!) breakfast of eggs, Gurung bread (very airy and flavorful and similar to Tibetan bread), and coffee, we set off for the day. This day’s trek was relatively short — only three hours — but we moved quickly to avoid the large, loud groups of European trekkers that apparently need to roll a dozen deep to enjoy nature. Though short, the trek was very engaging: as I inhaled…
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Annapurna Trek: Day 3 (Ghorepani – Poon Hill – Tadapani)
We all woke up by 5:00 the next morning, greeted by a dark coldness that permeated every layer of clothing I was wearing. We set out fifteen minutes later and began ascending the staircase that would take us another vertical 350 meters to the top of Poon Hill. The physical activity negated the freezing cold and within a few minutes I felt pretty warm. Every trekker within five miles was on those stairs, going up in a long train, illuminated by the occasional LED headlamp and the full moon. Once at the top, the hundred people or so alternated between…
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Annapurna Trek: Day 2 (Hile – Ghorepani)
Not surprisingly, I slept incredibly well (about ten hours) after a day of forcing semi-strenuous exercise on my relatively unconditioned body. Since breakfast would be at our usual time of 7:00, I was up at 6:30 to torture my body by blasting it with freezing cold mountain water as I brushed my teeth and washed my face over the outdoor drain. Breakfast was customary, but delicious and very filling: eggs, potatoes, toast, porridge with oatmeal and sugary milk, and tea. We left Hile at our usual starting time of 8:00 and began the hardest day of the trek: ascending 3,500…
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Annapurna Trek: Day 1 (Pokhara – Nayapul – Hile)
One of the primary reasons for any visit to Nepal is trekking, so once Ayu and I were committed to going there after India, I started researching treks and trekking companies. I was initially discouraged as most popular Nepal treks are rather lengthy (2+ weeks) compared to what I wanted to do (3-5 days). After some research, I decided that the five-day Ghorepani-Ghandruk (a.k.a. Poon Hill) trek was perfect, as it fit within my time limitations, left from and returned to Pokhara (where Ayu was doing her six-day yoga retreat), and offered plenty of natural beauty. Since I didn’t feel…
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Gokarna, Goa, and Mumbai
Gokarna Upon arriving at the train station in Karwar, we hired a taxi to take us to Gokarna, about a one-hour drive away. The drive through the countryside was similar to the other taxi rides we had taken (more on that in a bit), but for the first time in India, we were witness to the concept of stray cows. A bit unnerving at first, the sight of lazily lumbering bovines interrupting traffic with their slow road-crossings and zero-fucks-given attitudes has since become quite normal. While in Gokarna, another pleasant beach town with minimal crowds, we stayed on Om Beach,…
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Kerala
Trivandrum After saying goodbye to Chiang Mai, I started a 24-hour travel day: a quick flight to BKK followed by a six-hour layover, a 3-hour flight to Sri Lanka followed by a 9-hour layover (most of which was spent sleeping in an impressively uncomfortable position in airport lounge chair), then finally a short flight to Trivandrum. Getting out of the airport was a challenge as I had to wait to get my visa on arrival (a very recent program within India’s immigration system), leave the airport building to use the only ATM, reenter the airport, break the large, effectively unusable…
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Another Chiang Mai Winter
After a lot of fast-paced traveling over the last five months, I was craving some time to slow down and be productive with all my backlogs before starting the next adventure. Ayu is going through yoga teacher training this month, so this was a perfect chance for me to go back to Chiang Mai; it’s familiar and very livable, it’s cheap even for Thailand, it has coworking spaces, and the weather this time of year is absolutely perfect. Jeans and a t-shirt for days. It’s really no surprise that Chiang Mai is perpetually at the top of Nomad List. Since…
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Against Football?
With a week to go until the Super Bowl and news headlines filled with stories of saggy balls, this seems like a good time to take a departure from my normal travel blogging and write about an excellent football-related book I read recently. If you don’t live in Boston or Seattle, you probably don’t care about this year’s matchup, so you might as well read this instead. Against Football: One Fan’s Reluctant Manifesto by Steve Almond was recommended to me by, coincidentally, a Seattle friend when I saw him and his wife over the summer on my west coast tour.…
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More Bangkok, More Islands
Bangkok A few days after seeing Becca off, I linked up with a different group of friends (all from the States) in Bangkok for a few weeks through Thailand. Several had never been to Bangkok before, so they had the usual touristy days while I busied myself with some errands and much-needed clothes shopping. (My personal recommendations are Platinum Fashion Mall and MBK Center.) Nightlife included another beautiful trip to Moon Bar and another meh trip to Khao San Road (though without the stomach illness this time). One of my favorite memories from this time around in Bangkok was an…
